WELCOME TO KANDAHAR

(25SEPT2008)

It’s always better to travel with someone in theater, so that you have someone to complain to and so that you can look at him and think “I hope I don’t look that tired.” You of course look even more tired.

My colleague and I put our names on the waiting list to get to Kandahar days in advance and so by today, when we’re ready to travel, we’ve broken into the top 10 spots. These are good odds for making a flight, and we score a flight with a showtime just after 1700.

Showtime is when you have to be in the APOD or you lose your seat. You hand over your CAC, weigh your baggage, and then wait for anywhere between 30 minutes and forever until your plane arrives. If it arrives. Many flights are cancelled or diverted, often with no explanation.

We waited just under 4 hours for our flight, put on our IBA and kevlar (required for flights on C-130s) and are escorted across the tarmac carrying our bags. I can’t help but reflect that I’m very used to boarding aircraft from the tarmac now. Proper airports and terminals with their accordion walkways are a luxury we don’t have in theater.

I dislike C-130s, having had two particularly bad flights on them in the past, but this flight is less than full (a rarity) and so we have a little room to spread out. I’m able to get a little shut-eye on the almost 2 hour flight from Bagram to Kandahar.

We arrive around 2200 and as we’re walking from the plane to the APOD where we have to sign in, we’re quickly ushered inside about a minute before a siren wails. We’ve arrived just ahead of a rocket attack and apparently everyone heard the explosion except me.

We’re stuck inside for about an hour waiting for the Big Voice to give the “All clear”. I’m told that the APOD where we wait is the location of the Taliban’s last organized stand, and my colleague points out bullet holes that have been hastily plastered over and a charred ceiling. The next day we visit in the daylight to see un-repaired portions; crumbled walls and gaping holes in the roof.

We have another colleague who works in Kandahar and as the base is overfull and there is no transient housing available, we retire to his office (attached to his living quarters) and I lay my sleeping bag on an air mattress between two desks.

It’s probably the best night’s sleep I’ve had in Afghanistan.


APOD = Aerial Port of Debarkation
CAC = Common Access Card (military ID card)
IBA = Interceptor Body Armor
kevlar = term we use solely for our helmets