LIFE IN THE CLOUDS

(16DEC2008)

It’s easy to forget that we’re ‘at altitude’ here.

Surrounded by mountains, and always looking up at the horizon, gives the false impression that we’re in a low valley, that we’re at normal elevation and that only up there is soaring. I’m told that the city of Bagram, and the military base which takes its name – my home –, are at approximately 5,000’ above sea level – just a few hundred miles short of a mile.

I was warned before I came that the altitude would get to me, but I didn’t notice anything. My job is not generally strenuous, and while I would love to blame my shortness of breath while working out on the elevation, the truth is that I’m out of shape.

Today, the overcast sky was thick with clouds that seem to hover, densely, just out of arm’s reach. They spit at us occasionally, but for the most part have sat there like a dirty blanket; it feels as if we’re among them, as if they’re much closer than clouds should be.

The clouds block out the blue sky during the day and the stars at night, obscure the mountains, and dampen the collective spirit of the base. Not content to just smother, they also harken worsening weather.

Walking back to my room after a late meeting, the wind picks up and swirls the dirt and sand – not at all a proper sandstorm, as I’ve lived through a few of those, but enough to sting the eyes and to encourage a careful shaking-out of the uniform when I get inside.

It is not long after that the rain comes a little more regularly, and I listen to it on the thin roof of my room as lie down and think of warmer days.